The New Oris Aquis Date Compared to the Old Model

The New Oris Aquis Date Compared to the Old Model

Evolution, not revolution. This is a well-known strategy applied by many brands, not just in the watch industry. The idea of ​​gradually updating/upgrading your most iconic product without radically changing it is central to the success of watches such as the Porsche 911, the iPhone, the Nike Air Max and, of course, the Submariner or the Speedmaster. With the idea of ​​preserving the iconic status of a watch, but also improving what can be improved, Oris applies this evolutionary strategy to its best-selling diving watch, the contemporary Aquis Date collection. What’s new? What’s changed? What’s kept? We take a closer look at these in our latest video review and in this article.

In summary, what has changed?

Since the differences between the new Oris Aquis Date and the old model are visually difficult to spot for the untrained eye, let’s give you a brief summary of what you can expect from the 2024 collection before moving on to a more detailed overview.

  • A complete collection of 4 different subfamilies
    • Production Caliber 400 with a 43.5 mm case, blue, green or recycled PET plastic dial available
    • Caliber 733 (Sellita) with 43.5 mm case, available in green, blue, black or recycled PET plastic
    • Caliber 733 (Sellita) with 41.5 mm case, available in green, blue, black or recycled PET plastic
    • 36.5 mm case with caliber 733 (Sellita), available in black, cream mother-of-pearl or recycled PET plastic
Previous generation Oris Aquis Date (left) and the new one (right), both 41.50 mm models with Caliber 733
  • Thinner cases for all models – approximately 0.5 mm thinner than before
  • Subtle design updates for the chassis
    • slightly thinner, more conical protrusions, a more curved profile
    • more tapered and rounded crown guards
    • Re-proportioned ceramic bezel with updated notched profile
    • slightly more pronounced slope on the back of the case
  • Slightly updated dials
    • reshaped shield-like hour markers
    • Updated arms with new light insert
    • more compact font for text
    • Colour-coordinated date disc on all models
Previous generation Oris Aquis Date (left) and the new one (right), both 41.50 mm models with Caliber 733
  • Reshaped bracelet
    • wider central connection and connecting link
    • more taper from case to clasp
    • Patented quick-change system available only on the Caliber 400
    • quick release buckle only on Caliber 400

Details of the New Oris Aquis Date

As you can see from our video review at the beginning of this article, as well as the photos and summaries above, a lot has changed without much else… The only way for someone who is not familiar with the watch to notice the differences is to examine the new Oris Aquis Date next to the old version. The new and old look very similar at first glance, but do they feel the same? The answer is a few. The point is: why change a watch that has proven to be durable and appreciated by enthusiasts, especially when it is one of the brand’s bestsellers? Why wipe the past clean with something new when Oris can take a critical look at its watch and focus on what could be improved to make the Aquis even better than it already is?

Evolution… Not a revolution. A proven recipe for creating enduring icons

This was the solution chosen by Oris, and it’s a strategy we’ve seen implemented in many of the most durable watches on the market. Was the Aquis Date perfect? ​​Of course not. Nothing. Was there room for improvement? Yes, always. With that in mind, Oris decided to keep the overall design and specifications fresh, while upgrading where there was room for improvement. This strategy ensures continuity while ensuring that owners of the previous generation don’t feel victimized by a new watch that will make their cherished purchase feel old and out of date. Continuity is key to creating a timeless, iconic collection. Period.

We have already briefly covered the details and evolution of the Oris Aquis Date in a dedicated article, which you can read here . But let’s dive into the details. As mentioned above, the Oris Aquis Date evolution has been launched in the entire range, from the large 43.50 mm with a 5-day production caliber to its equally large sibling with a Sellita movement, to the more compact 41.50 mm model and a feminine option with a very different look that is not covered here. The only missing piece of the puzzle is the medium-sized model with a diameter of 39.50 mm. It will definitely come.

Let’s start with the case, which at first glance feels the same but is actually completely new. And it’s all about the proportions, shapes, and some work done on refinement. Looking at the 43.50mm or 41.50mm versions, Oris has reduced the thickness by about half a millimeter at 13.1mm and 12.9mm respectively, compared to 13.7mm and 13.3mm. This is mostly thanks to a newly shaped case back combined with a slightly thinner central case back – the thickness has been redistributed between the central case back and the case back.

Next, the new Oris Aquis Date has thinner, more tapered lugs on both planes. From the side, you can see that the lugs are thinner and have a more curved profile, with a more pronounced slope from the bezel to the screw-down end. From the top, the profile is also more tapered and the central link is wider, giving the entire watch a lighter feel. That said, the Aquis is still a solid, contemporary dive watch with a certain weight. As for the crown guards, the same recipe has been applied, as they are now slightly smaller and more tapered. Overall, minor updates that bring better ergonomics and a more refined look without compromising the instrument-like design.

Here you can see the different shapes of the case back (old on the left, new on the right)

The final update to the watch’s exterior concerns the bezel, which has been slightly up-proportioned with a slightly thinner insert, a scale that uses thinner markers and numerals, and a notched profile that feels better defined – the machining of the notches is more precise, as you can see in the photos.

Moving on to the dial, the signature look of the Oris Aquis Date remains intact, yet again minor upgrades have been made to bring a more refined feel and added sophistication. The shield-like hour markers have been slightly reshaped next to the hands, with better definition and greater precision in the application of the luminous material. The dial now has its own dedicated backdrop (used only on the Aquis) that is slightly more compact. Finally, a color-coordinated date wheel is now featured on all models, as was the case for some previous versions of the Aquis.

For the new Aquis Date, Oris has also redesigned the stainless steel bracelet (rubber straps are also available in colors that match the dial). The key here is again to redistribute the size of all the elements. First, the central brushed link is now wider, while the lateral polished links are thinner. Second, the bracelet has a more tapered profile from the case to the clasp. The higher-end model, the Aquis Date 43.50mm Caliber 400, is equipped with two very practical features; the patented quick-change system and the patented quick-adjustment clasp system. To be honest, it’s a bit of a missed opportunity that these two features are not available across the range, even if it does increase the price of the Sellita-based versions a bit.

As for the movement, there is no noticeable evolution. The top-end model comes with the Calibre 400, an in-house developed automatic movement with modern features: 5-day power reserve, anti-magnetic silicon escape wheel and anchor, accuracy of -3/+5 seconds/day, and a 10-year warranty and 10-year recommended service intervals. There is no denying the additional value of this movement over the Sellita-based Calibre 733. It is more powerful and more precise, but also more expensive – €2,400 versus €3,700.

With that in mind, there’s nothing wrong with the 733. It’s a tried and tested SW200-1 automatic movement that will do the job with sufficient precision and reliability. In fact, on a personal level, my pick in the collection would be the 41.5mm model, which is currently only available with this movement. Knowing that the Aquis 41.50mm Caliber 400 has existed in the past, I can’t see why it won’t make a comeback soon.


In short, the new Oris Aquis Date collection is a better watch in every way. Of course, we are talking about incremental, small updates that do not reinvent the wheel. But when you look closely at these new references, you can feel the difference. A slightly more refined, better defined, more ergonomic, more contemporary and a higher quality watch in every way. Oris has managed to strike the perfect balance between upgrading a watch without making the old versions obsolete. A smart move… One that guarantees continuity, staying power and respect for its existing fan base. And all this comes with a marginal price increase of around 100 euros… At MONOCHROME, we believe this is a good strategy.

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